Sardine Run

So, it has been quite some time since our last post to the blog and for good reason – our son Leo was born. Lee was also very ill recently and had to spend 10 days in hospital. We are happy to report that we are all well and enjoying family life.

This trip started a while back on Instagram. We were contacted by Ozzy from @traveldesigner earlier this year and he invited us to join Steve Benjamin from Animal Ocean on a trip to the Wild Coast of South Africa to experience the sardine run. Since Leo was still very little it was decided that I would go alone.

As someone who loves nature and someone who also takes an interest in the latest developments around the world, I am often conflicted and disappointed when I see the environmental impact we have on the natural world. It is then always inspiring and comforting when I see great numbers of animals together and flourishing. We have seen the white storks at Lake Manyara in Tanzania and the Makgadikgadi flamingos in Botswana. Last year Lee and I camped on the banks of the Mara river in Tanzania, and were surrounded by tens of thousands of Wildebeest, but even that does not compare to the sheer scale in numbers of what I was about to experience during this trip!

Opportunities like this don’t present too often so, when it does, and you get to spend 6 days at sea with five marine biologists, a psychologist, a dolphin-expert, a crazy surfer and an IT guy – you don’t say no – ever! Every day we would launch from Mdumbi point and spend the day at sea – exploring this rich coastline and taking in the raw beauty of this unspoiled wilderness.

If you are looking for the next big adventure and don’t mind long days out at sea then this trip might just be the adrenaline fix you need. Days are long and intense as you are tossed from one wild encounter to the next. When we weren’t swimming with dolphins, sharks and whales we were surfing, scuba diving and spearfishing. Having Steve’s boat made exploring this untouched coastline very easy as access by road is often restricted and extremely rugged.

“If you are looking for the next BIG adventure and don’t mind long days out at sea then this trip might just be the adrenaline fix you need!”

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Quick Notes

Accommodation
Adventure
Accessibility
Food
Coffee
Accommodation

Mdumbi Backpackers is situated in the most epic location overlooking Mdumbi Point. Beyond the point you have a 180 degree view of the Indian Ocean. I stayed in a traditional “Rondawel” or thatched roof hut which adds to the cultural experience as these huts are synonymous with the Wild Coast. Do not expect luxury as these huts only offer the bare essentials and bringing your own linen may be a good idea for some. Having said that the communal ablutions are serviced 24/7 and were always spotless. There is a very well stocked communal kitchen with both fridge and freezer facilities. The communal lounge area is a highlight and offers a peaceful retreat.

Adventure

The list of things to do is endless and strangely, doing nothing ranks really ‘high’ on this list of things to do while here at Mdumbi backpackers. Hiking is big around here as it is one of the popular overnight stops for those doing any of the multi-day hiking adventures. Kayaking takes you up the Mdumbi river to places very rarely visited. Mountain biking is epic in these parts, and although there are no marked routes, it is easy to make your own as you go – for more organised riding – visit Imana Wild Ride. Mdumbi is well known for its unbelievable point break that stretches well over 400m on a good day. During this trip I met the Billabong crew as they were shooting their latest surf film and we were treated to some monster swell. Our main attraction was of course the ocean and everything in it – and with a boat we were able to access so much of this unspoiled coastline.

Accessibility

If you like 4×4 driving like me – you will definitely have fun getting here. However, if you are using a rental vehicle make sure you take out additional tyre and windscreen insurance and don’t try to set records on the final 50km of this drive. The road is unpredictable and can vary from an extremely rutted and rocky surface to very muddy following heavy rains. The best route is still via Mthatha (coming in from the N2 North) and with the new roads around the city, one can now avoid the chaos within – I suggest using Google maps for directions. From the N2 South I believe you still have to pass through Mthatha as you have to cross the river – we’ll be thinking of you – good luck!

Food

At our previous trips to Mdumbi we have always catered for ourselves, but on this particular trip we were treated to meals prepared by the staff of Mdumbi backpackers. Wholesome and generous, these meals are essential to your survival during such an action packed adventure. Two members of our party were vegetarian and meals were tailored with their preferences in mind.

Coffee

If not for Steve’s coffee plunger and a generous caffeine shot every morning, at best we would’ve come home with some high noon time-lapses. Instead we captured some crisp crackers thanks to his brew. So yes, take your own fix.

Mdumbi Sardine Run

Just north of Mdumbi there is this spot known as Lwandile, and on this particular morning it was going off! Besides the clean surf and clear water we were treated to the most epic aerial dolphin display I have ever seen! I kid you not – we were surrounded by dolphins for the entire day we were out there – and they were chasing waves for days.

Further north we found a cove and went for a snorkeling session in the shallower water. Aiden shot a beautiful Garrick which he turned into a nice pickle later that evening. Another highlight of this session was being surrounded by thousands of shad all moving through the shallows looking for bait-fish. The feeling of diving into this school of shad was incredible – being enveloped by thousands of fish that are all perfectly spaced and staying just out of arms-reach. Their united movement seemed peaceful and almost docile, but those scouting big eyes gave away their true agenda – those fish were hungry.

Mdumbi Sardine Run

Another wonderful experience was swimming with whales. Most whales that we saw during our trip were Humpback whales heading north to the warm waters of Mozambique to calf. We saw a glimpse of a Bryde’s whale on our last day at sea, but the standout experience was one afternoon on our way back home when we came across a pod of whales socialising. As we entered the water they became very inquisitive and we managed to get very close. The sounds they produce are really loud and varies from the typical whale-song to deep grumbling. With them were a few bronze whalers and a pod of bottlenose dolphins.

Mdumbi Sardine Run

As someone who has done a fair amount of diving in the warmer waters of South Africa and Mozambique, this experience was very unique. Seeing sea-life from both temperate and tropical waters together plays with your mind and is a wonderful sight. My experience with the bigger animals of the ocean broadened my understanding and appreciation of this delicate ecosystem. I am still amazed at how adept these big animals are in their environment, the distances they cover to find food and provide safety for their young and how graceful end effortless they seem to move.

I also have to commend Steve and his team for arranging this trip – I could not imagine it more perfect. Needless to say I immediately booked my spot for next year!

Mdumbi Sardine Run